Beth Dooley
Photo: Beth Dooley.
Beth Dooley: Cooking Perennially to Bring Sustainable Change
This is an abridged version of a post originally published by Meet the Minnesota Makers. It's part of a series focusing on Forever Green and regenerative agriculture in Minnesota.
By Michelle Sharp, founder of Meet the Minnesota Makers
“I’m not that great a cook. I’m a really good shopper,” laughs Beth Dooley, James Beard award-winning food writer, author of more than a dozen cookbooks, Star Tribune columnist, and a regular contributor to MPR.
To encourage people to prioritize sustainable food choices, Beth stresses the need to find someone’s “in,” the ah-ha element that connects them to the regional food web. Beth’s connection has always been the flavor of the food she cooks for herself and others, whether at home or an event. Once she asked herself why locally-grown food tastes different, it led her to other steps along the path of food production that inform flavor. Sustainability plays a major role because it’s so important for soil quality. “You can’t have good food without good soil quality,” said Beth. “You just can’t.”
That is why Beth Dooley is so excited about a new planet-friendly grain grown in Minnesota. Kernza® perennial grain has massive root structures that reduce soil erosion and improve water quality. With tap roots that reach ten feet or more into the soil, this grain is remarkably tolerant of extreme weather—both in the form of drought and storms.
Beth describes Kernza as a nutty grain with warm cinnamon undertones. It’s a thirsty grain that loves to absorb butter. Beth describes it as being a bit “moody,” preferring warm pairings like ginger or chocolate to lighter citrus tones. Beth also recommends it as a breakfast cereal. It cooks up like cream of wheat—you just need to set it to simmer until it falls apart and enjoy–perhaps with a splash of local maple syrup or a dollop of honey. She also loves to use it in a pilaf or this shortbread cookie.
Beth published The Perennial Kitchen in 2021 to pave the way for more home cooks to enjoy the warm flavor of Kernza, and other more sustainable ingredients, for themselves. “My goal was to focus on how to get more regenerative foods into home kitchens. I want to help consumers recognize that regenerative or sustainable agriculture are not marketing terms. They address how the food is grown,” shared Beth. “This book tries to educate, inform, excite, and inspire people to think about the practices behind their food, not just the labels.”